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Even rocket scientists
know Jack Squat Diddly about buying, leasing or servicing an
automobile...
- Neural Surgeons and Astronauts - 0; Car Dealers - 10; Go Figure!
R. Rand Knox
Dealing
with the Dealer
Giving the Dealer
the Dealer's Treatment
Alternative Dealing Strategies
(Pick one
or more, if you dare...very car-fully,
test drive a few dealers before settling in for closing the trunk
on a deal)
CAUTION!
Do
not finance vehicle purchases through the dealer. Just don't do it. Financing through
dealers is a cash cow for dealers who often add two, three, four
or five percent or more to the interest fee charged by the lending
company. This is called dealer reserve, and it works like a kick-back
to the dealer, often at great extra expense to consumers. Bad
credit consumers are especially susceptible to this dealer reserve
which is often undisclosed by the dealer. Often dealer financing
staff are trained to tell consumers they will get for the consumer
the "best" financing rate available, without telling
them that the dealer will mark up the lenders interest rate to
milk the deal. If you must finance through a dealer, make sure
to find out the lending company's interest rate, and the dealer's
reserve or markup interest rate. And negotiate this along with
the price of the vehicle.
- The Virtual
Car Deal:
(Aren't they all?) Buying or leasing a car over the internet
is generally equivalent to buying from a dealer or broker and
usually the price quoted will be the manufacturer's invoice (usually
more), which as you may know by now has been padded and usually
includes a 3%, 5% or higher percentage "holdback" for
the seller be he or she an authorized dealer, broker, or virtual
retailer-dealer.
-
- The No-deal
Deal or Lease:
This is the least expensive (in most cases) of the various types
of car deals. Just
don't buy it.
Go carless. Imagine how much interest the $15,000 to $45,000
or more in car and loan fees will earn if wisely invested and
compounded over several no-deals, especially when factored over
a life-time of car ownership and operation costs. Just don't
buy it. This type of deal pays dividends to the consumer which
otherwise would be spent on insurance, loan interest, and repair
bills, and gas.
A lifetime
of average car ownership at 20,000 driving miles per year
could cost over $450,000 plus, not including external costs such
as war for oil, etc.
Make your government give you an income tax deduction for not
owning and not driving a car, or for limiting the use of your
car.
Make your government make the IRS reward carlessness, and to
encourage and promote public and private investments in public
and alternative transportation to wean society of its addictive
dependence on the private automobile.
The
MSRP (Window Sticker Price) Deal.
If you pay the MSRP, why not leave a big tip too, while you're
at it? This is the least consumer friendly of the various car
deal strategies. If you or anyone you know pays the window sticker
price on any new car (including so called "value priced"
or no-dicker deals), check out the following more enlightened
and consumer assertive car deal strategies. Remember, MSRP also
has been derisively, but accurately referred to as the "manufacturer's
suggested rip-off price." The government requires the manufacturer
to post the MSRP on each new car, and dealers are only too happy
to comply in posting this inflated price on the window for every
sucker, er., consumer to see.
Don't
Buy It! Don't Pay It!
Negotiate non-negotiable "value-priced" or no-haggle
deals too. Just knock-off an appropriate percentage from the
manufacturer's invoice price which is often referred to as the
dealer's costs (obtainable for a nominal free from Consumer Reports
Pricing Service, AAA or other automobile pricing service) and
walk until the dealer talks. If negotiating pricing is not a
customer service, then what is? Are you being serviced or served?
-
- The Bidded
or Low-bid Deal:
The low bid deal is one in which a final competitive low price
is requested from four or five dealers individually (make sure
you specify in writing that you are negotiating for a new and
defect free vehicle -- if you are). This can be done in person
by visiting the dealerships, by phone or by fax or mail. Get
the dealer's commitment in writing. Be wary of low-ball pricing
which some dealers will try merely to lure you back to work you
over or to anchor you to the dealership.
The consumer may choose to buy from the low bidder, or negotiate
a lower price with the low bidder, or the next lowest bidder,
etc. Generally dealers will shun bidding wars, but skillful consumers
may be able to work a better deal using this method. Dealers
working through a manufacturer's regional sales representative
many be able to bid up a low bid by sharing information informally
or inadvertently between dealers within a region or through the
manufacturer's representative, so the low bid may not really
be the best deal possible.
Moreover,
several dealerships of the same make and model of vehicles in
a geographical area are often owned as a dealership "group" by a single dealer or company. Bidding
prices between "dealerships" owned by a single entity
obviously comes with a big CARveat Emptor. Time was when independent
dealers kept manufacturers from retailing their products directly
to the public. Dealers become the middlemen (persons) ostensibly
as a means of preventing price-brand monopolization by a manufacturer.
The more recent "dealership or automotive groups" make
it more likely that consumers will pay more for a vehicle than
if there were dealerships competing for the sale of the same
makes and models of vehicles in a region or area. The dealer
has always been the inflationary middle person in the delivery
of vehicles to the consumer, increasing the cost to consumers.
The dealership groups are but another method of controlling prices
and minimizing competition in the marketplace. Consumers need
to know who they're dealing with and be prepared to shop, compare
and negotiate accordingly.
Typically in low bid deals, the dealer has not worked for the
consumer in negotiating a better deal by negotiating a lower
and fairer manufacturer's profit. Better to make the dealer negotiate
a lower manufacturer profit for you as part of the dealer's commitment
to customer service and satisfaction.
Although it may not be worth the paper its written on, request
that the dealer disclose all known defects, damage or repairs
in writing before negotiating price or new or used cars.
If there are none, have the dealer put this in writing, too.
-
- The Brokered
Deal.
This
is where a consumer purchases a car with the assistance of an
independent car sales broker. Ahh, another middle person fee.
A fair or good negotiator should be able to do as well or better
dealing directly with the dealer and pocket the broker's fee.
Avoids the hassle of dealing with dealers (worth something!),
but at a cost that could be saved by dealing direct with the
dealer if you don't get fleeced in the process. If you have deal
broke red, consider deducting the broker's fees from the final
price. Brokered deals generally don't include negotiated dealer
or manufacturer's profits which means consumers pay more for
this deal type than necessary. The broker is another middleman
which passes additional costs on to the consumer.
-
- Negotiated
Dealer Profit Deal.
This is the deal of conventional popularity and vogue. Popularized
about ten years ago (earlier for industry insiders), this deal
strategy assumes that consumers cannot negotiate below the price
set by the manufacturer's invoice (so-called dealer's costs).
If you do not know about this kind of deal, do some reading before
buying your next new car. Consumer Reports in, "Dealing
with the Dealer," reported that on average, consumers
were able to negotiate a dealer profit of between 2% and 4% above
the "dealer's cost" as represented by the manufacturer's
invoice price to the dealer.
You may be able to do better than this by negotiating not only
the dealer's take on the deal, but by also negotiating the manufacturer's
profit as well. The manufacturer's invoice price (sometimes
referred to as the dealer's costs) includes in many cases a hold
back fee of 3% to 5% or more which is paid to the dealer by the
manufacturer in addition to the consumer negotiated dealer profit
upon sale of the vehicle.
Not bad for five minutes (if you're lucky) of often sloppy dealer
paperwork. Keep in mind that the manufacturer pads its invoice
price to the dealer with huge profits and hidden value subtracted
costs such as anti-consumer litigation fees, industry serving
anti-consumer advertising and other hidden costs not directly
related to production of automobiles. Go after the manufacturers'
profit too -- its the economical thing for consumers to do. When
enough consumers ding the dealer and manufacturer on profits,
the price of vehicle will fall to a fairer consumer-valued market
price. The test here for most consumers is to hang tough on negotiating
the lowest price for every vehicle, and avoid being bluffed into
paying more than any vehicle is worth.
- AutoBuyology's CARveat Emptor,
"Negotiated Manufacturer's Profit Deal."
The "All New and Improved" car deal negotiating strategy!
Expect this strategy to catch on (with consumers) and become
popularized as the negotiated dealer profit deal strategy has
over the past ten to fifteen years.
Similar to the dealer profit negotiated deal. Assumes consumers
can do better than merely negotiating the dealer's profit above
the manufacturer's invoice. Consumer negotiates the manufacturer's
profit on all new car deals, even so-called "value priced'
and "no-haggle" deals, similar to negotiating the dealer's
profit.
Instead of negotiating the dealer's profit up from the manufacturer's
invoice, negotiate the manufacturer's profit down from the manufacturer's
invoice or what is often referred to as dealer's costs. Its just
that simple. Remember that most manufacturer's invoices include
a 3% to 5% or larger dealer "holdback", which is reimbursed
or paid to the dealer upon sale of the vehicle. This can be as
much as five hundred to a thousand dollars or more depending
on manufacturer's invoice price. Not too shabby for five minutes
of often sloppy paperwork after several hours of haggling.
So do you really want to give the dealer an additional 2% to
4% or more on top of the 3% to 5% holdback the dealer is going
to get from the manufacturer anyway, especially knowing that
the manufacturer has additional profits and other consumer value-subtracted
costs built into its invoice price to the dealer? Huh?
And, how do you suppose manufacturers are able to offer rebates
to consumers (we've seen $4000 to $8,000 rebates offered in some
TV ads [read the small, fast moving print] and "sales incentives"
to dealers on top of the hidden manufacturer's holdback"?
Precisely, by inflating sticker pricing. Overly eager consumers
pay a high car deal ding fee by buying new models too soon after
they are shipped to the dealers early in their model release
year, instead of being patient and consumer savvy by waiting
until later in the model year just before the new models are
released or after the new models are released. The longer the
models linger on the lot, the better the bet that the "market
price" will come down to a reasonable consumer value price.
Go Figure! Do the math...!!!
Remember,
the manufacturer's profit is merely everything you pay for the
car in excess of the manufacturer's costs to make it. This means that the
manufacturer has paid all of its overhead costs, including excessive
executive salaries, advertising and inflationary production costs,
then added a standard industry profit percentage on top of all
of these costs. The manufacturer's actual costs for making the
vehicle can be as much as or more than 1/2 less than the manufacturer's
invoice price to the dealer ("dealer's costs"). Everything
above the manufacturer's direct and indirect costs (overhead)
for making a vehicle should be negotiable.
Consider that the manufacturer may be inefficient and its production
costs may be way out of line with what it would be if it had
to go head to head with another manufacturer in direct competition
in producing the same model of vehicle. Unfortunately this cannot
be done due to patent protection and trademark laws which prevent
intra-brand competition. And consider whether the manufacturer
is making enough vehicles or limiting the number of vehicles
to affect demand and pricing. Consider also whether dealer representations
about availability may also be designed or tailored (edited)
to effect demand and pricing. Hinting that a product is in limited
supply tends to have a peaking effect on consumer interest, and
is a subtle sales manipulation trick to increase demand.
Be patient. Even experienced business professionals fall for
this sales ruse. If the dealer or manufacturer is not able to
sufficiently supply the market, perhaps it would be better to
deal with dealers and manufacturers who plan and manage their
product lines and supplies better in the interest of lower consumer
oriented pricing.
Also, be careful with invoices. Sometimes dealers conveniently
confuse invoices and may produce the dealer's invoice, not the
requested manufacturer's invoice, or may pad the manufacturer's
invoice by adding so called "regional advertising"
which the manufacturer has already factored into its invoice
price to the dealer. This is known as double-dipping, and is
a clever price inflating trick used frequently by car dealers
to milk consumers, er., deals.
It is best to obtain the manufacturer's invoice from library
references or from Consumer Reports, AAA or other car pricing
service for a very worthwhile nominal fee. Then milk the dealer
and the manufacturer.
Remember, the manufacturer has built all of its overhead (20%
of the cost of an average automobile is estimated by industry
experts to go the existing cumbersome distribution system --
some manufacturers are reported to be negotiating to buy up some
dealerships and distributors in order to control prices and sales
quality more closely -- but don't hold your breath for any savings
to be passed along to consumers), including excessive executive
salaries, golden parachutes and pensions, industry-serving, consumer
beguiling advertising, litigation costs for shoddy product design
or negligence, and costs for lobbying congress to delay, kill
or water-down consumer and environmental protection and safety
laws into its invoice prices, and a hefty ding-dong profit factor
to boot --er.,--ding the consumer. Yepsiree, you and I are
paying for all of this and the bank is whistling all the way
to the bank too. Obtain a certified itemized accounting of these
costs and deduct them from your final offer. If the dealer or
manufacturer is unwilling or unable to provide you with a certified
itemized accounting of its per car production, overhead, and
profit costs, estimate them and deduct them from your final offer
and walk until the dealer talks. Practice your walking skills
on a few dealers before settling in for a deal.
-
- The Consumer Protected
Car Deal.
(EVEN BASEBALL REQUIRES UMPIRES) Requires the majority of car
consumers to demand fairness in car sales and service practices
consumer protection laws of their state and national governments
as merely another layer of security or as a check on unfair,
manipulative and fraudulent sales and service practices.
Defines fairness and regulates the sales and repair of new and
used cars actively and comprehensively to protect the economy,
consumers, and fair industry practitioners from unscrupulous
practitioners. Wouldn't it be nice if all that consumers had
to be concerned about in car deals was negotiating the price,
and not the hundreds of other pitfalls experienced thousands
of times a day across America? Wouldn't it be nice if the issue
of price was the only risk of purchasing a car?
When was the last time you wrote your local, county, state and
national government representatives and officials and demanded
laws and ordinances with enforcement funding to clean up the
inflationary sleaze factors in the automobile industry? When
are you going to get around to it? Pen the date on your calendar,
and write that letter. Now! And follow it up with additional
letters and phone calls and by voting out unresponsive public
officials. (Even Baseball Requires Umpires). Only 4% of cheated
consumers file complaints. No wonder this industry thinks it
can get away with dinging customers. It can, and it does. You
and I have permitted this situation to continue unanswered.
-
- The Lease
Deal.
Be Very - CARveat Emptor - Wary! If you do not know about "CAP
COSTS, " find out before dealing for a lease. Negotiate
the capitalization costs (basically, the cost of the car) the
same way consumers negotiate the dealer and manufacturer negotiated
profit deals before signing lease agreements. Don't forget to
negotiate the manufacturer's profit on lease deals too. Don't
pay for manufacturer's costs such as advertising, liability litigation,
congressional lobbying and political activity, , new car depreciation
(shine costs), etc. Negotiate who pays for maintenance and negotiate
the purchase option price at the end of the lease too.
Negotiate
Everything. Carefully!
Lease dealers are being pushed by dealers because they make huge
profits on them, and they are usually a bad deal for consumers.
Be especially careful about buying a car through a lease, which
means leasing a car for a period of time and then buying the
vehicle with a payoff price. These lease deals are notoriously
unfair and full of consumer pitfalls.
A Toyota
consumer recently paid $26,000 in a lease/purchase deal for a
$12,000 Toyota.
Yep, even Toyota dealers will help you make your next new car
purchase or lease mistake. Be careful of the bait and switch
ruse, where dealers advertise a low purchase price, only to hard-sell
a lease when you get to the dealership. Make the dealer disclose
the lease rate (interest rate on the lease) and make sure he
does not inflate the cost of the lease by the value of your trade-in.
These are additional notorious dealer practices which cheat consumers
out of thousands of dollars. Make your government clean up the
sham factor in new car deals and leases. Don't lease unless you
know what you're doing. Avoid leases if at all possible. They
are very anti-consumer and very pro-industry.
Many major car brands have been advertising "no money down"
leases of purchase deals. However, after consumers have been
sucked down to the dealer by these ads, they find that the fine
print in the unreadable TV advertising fine print includes substantial
up-front or out the door costs (dealer or manufacturer ding dong
deal factors). If this happens to you, merely deduct the dealer's
and manufacturer's consumer ding factor from your final offer
and walk until the dealer talks. And report them to your local
district attorney.
-
- Consider
not buying a vehicle the dealer or manufacturer is unwilling
or unable to make available for at least a thirty day pre-purchase
or pre-lease trial use period, by rental with option to buy if possible.
It is unrealistic to expect to be able to make an informed purchase
decision for such an important "investment" (:-), based
on merely a fifteen minute test drive in the presence of commission-hungry
dealership sales staff.
Consider
negotiating a thirty, sixty, or ninety+ day return clause in your purchase or
lease agreement, or better yet, request to rent the vehicle at
fair market rental rates, with an option to purchase at the end
of the thirty day rental period, with the rental fee applying
to the negotiated purchase price of the vehicle. For such an
important and expensive purchase decision, this is not an unreasonable
expectation or request. In fact it is unreasonable to expect
consumers to make such an important decision based on fifteen
minutes of test driving. Consumers should not have to request
this service, it should be automatic if customer service means
anything. So consider demanding it. You are paying for it.
-
- Avoid Dealing
With Low Level Dealer Sales Staff. Respectfully request to deal directly with the
sales manager -- be careful, as low level sales staff may try
to pass themselves off as managers. By dealing with the sales
manager who has authority to negotiate pricing without conferring
with higher management, consumers stand a better chance of avoiding
being "flipped and turned" endlessly between several
sales staff which is a dealing trick from way back designed to
keep consumers off guard and confused. The sales manager should
know without having to consult with anyone else the lowest price
the dealer can sell the vehicle for without having to resort
to the traditional games and tricks of the deal. If you find
the manager playing games, practice guerrilla car consumer walking
skills. Beat feet. Reverse the ding factor in car dealing. Ding
the dealer, always courteously and with a smile, of course. Firm
handshake, eye contact and effusive and glowing congratulatory
remarks all-around. If the salesperson is smiling or high-fiving
his or her fellow sales folk when you drive off the lot, you
likely got unsafe car deal sex treatment. (:-)(-:)
Regardless
of which car deal strategy you use, learn as much as possible about SYSTEM
SELLING before negotiating for another new or used car deal or
lease. System Selling is the standard dealing techniques that
dealers use to size up a consumer, determine what motivates the
consumer, and fixing an emotional attachment between a consumer
and a specific new car, and getting a consumer to engage in oral
commitments by asking seemingly innocent questions and focusing
consumer attention on vehicle styling, new features, new car
smell, fresh upholstery, etc.
Use this technique to your advantage -- reverse roles and develop
a consumers "SYSTEM
BUYING"
techniques on the dealer and sales staff. Keep in mind, the dealer
and manufacturer want your money more than you want any car,
or else why would they go to such great trouble in scheming up
manipulative advertising and sales tricks to get you in the door
so they can work their "customer service" System Selling
techniques on you? Indeed, keep in mind, the dealer is in the
business of self service not customer service. Consumers are
merely an inconvenient obstacle between the dealer and the consumer's
money.
- Dealers typically
inflate used car prices as much or more than 30% expecting to
settle for no less than about 15% to 25%. Savvy Guerrilla Auto
Consumers shift the dealer ding factors into reverse and low
or high ball the dealer in the opposite direction by an equal
amount. Find reverse in the Great American Car Deal and after
checking the rearview mirror, put the peddle to the mettle of
the consumer driven car deal.
Considering
leasing your next new car?
Don't, but if you do, consider getting a copy of:
The Reality
Checklist for Vehicle Leasing (First!)
- download at
gopher@essential.org - or:
- send $1.50
& SASE to
- Consumer
Task Force - Reality Checklist for Vehicle Leasing
- POB 7648
- Atlanta,
GA 30357
- (don't get
dinged on "Cap" costs, maintenance costs or early-out
costs....many have! (:- (. Negotiate all of these costs and make
sure to obtain the rate of interest on the lease and all particulars
including the value and credit of trade-ins, rebates and negotiated
credits in writing...leasing forms are especially tricky on purpose
(no customer service here -- just dealer self-service.) Dealers
usually make between 3% and 10% more than the MSRP (window sticker
{sucker} price) on lease deals. CARveat Emptor! A Toyota dealer
recently leased a $12,000 Toyota to a customer for $26,000. Be
Very CARveat Emptor.
When
leasing (generally not advised, dealer wins, and consumers lose)
your next new car, be careful to have the dealer quote in writing
(have it notarized) the rate of interest you are paying on the
lease
and specify in writing the credit for any trade in or rebates
and other negotiated deal credits. Many states do not require
such disclosures which are required on direct loans, and dealers
have been ripping off customers on credits for trade-ins and
rebates or other negotiated credits. Two thousand or more auto
consumers in Florida reported being leased vehicles they though
they were and intended to purchase outright. Hum, must be more
of that good-ole customer service the automobile industry brags
about in its advertising (:-). Dealers have been stealing commissions
of 3% to 10% or more than the highly inflated MSRP (Window sticker
sucker price) on many vehicles because of slippery lease agreement
forms and non-disclosures of important consumer information.
Make your government clean up this cesspool. CARveat Emptor.
And, until it does, employ your Guerrilla Car Consumer maneuvers.
Customer
service and satisfaction often seems like a "self-service"
island in the car sales and service drive-by convenience stop. The National Automobile
Association (NADA) works to protect the interests of dealers
by lobbying Congress and state legislatures on behalf of the
industry, and you and I, J. Q. Consumer, pay for it with every
car we buy. Ding. Ding. Ding. Mr. and Mrs. J. Q. Public are left
to fend for him or herself, as best he or she can -- a decided
disadvantage, unless perhaps you purchase vehicles more often
than the average car consumer does at five to eight year intervals
and are well practiced in the chapter and verse of the seemingly
endless list of tricks of the Great American Car Deal.
The challenge (trick) for consumers is to turn consumer protection
into a lifespan team sport where all consumers understand the
importance of wise and considered (conscious) consumer choices
and decisions and to make purchases in consideration of the net
results and effects that personal purchasing decisions have on
others and ultimately on themselves in return down the road.
Consumers are an important force in a consumer driven economy.
Wield the power judiciously, but pay less! Demand better quality
and don't pay extra for unreinforced plastic bumpers or side
impact exposed fuel tanks.
If your
state requires license plates on both the front and back of the vehicle and the vehicle is designed
to receive only one plate, ask yourself what else the manufacturer
may have forgotten. If the dealer provides license plate mounting
frames, request generic plate frames without the dealer's name
and phone number on it if possible, or request that the dealer
pay you for driving around advertising his or her business on
the back and front of your car. This may seem like a small or
insignificant issue, but it speaks volumes about the relationship
of customers to dealers and vice versa and about reversing the
roles of consumer and dealer in the marketplace.
Dealers install monogrammed or engraved license plate mounting
frames at consumers expense because they work as advertising,
letting others know where you got your vehicle, and the consumer
picks up the costs of this advertising service. You may not want
to advertise to every kook and stranger in the world where you
got taken on your last new car mistake, er., deal. The dealer
should not assume that you wish to assist the dealer in advertising
his or her dealership, and should request your permission to
install the dealership's monogrammed license plate mounting frames.
You can buy the likely dealer explanation that by advertising
he sells more cars keeping prices down if you want to, but you'll
pay for it.
By requesting generic plate frames consumers assert the proper
consumer demeanor and relationship to the dealer and the industry.
And by all means, if a dealer mistreats you, do not drive around
with the dealer's name and phone number emblazoned on the front
and rear of your car. You can paint or tape over the name of
the dealership in some cases (avoid over-sparing). Remove the
plate frames and replace them with generic or other engraved
plate frames available from your alma mater.
Perhaps the only legitimate use of the dealer's license plate
frames is when they are accompanied with ready to apply (RTA)
self-adhesive lettering or signs indicating the nature of any
mistreatment accorded the consumer by the dealer or manufacturer.
In such a case, the accompanying message should be obviously
related to and reflective of the dealer's name and phone number
and located near the license plate frame. Driving around with
the dealer's monogrammed license plate frames on your car is
generally reflective of a non-assertive unguerrilla-like car
consumer working for the dealership for no remuneration -- stupid,
very stupid. Does the dealer drive around with your name on his
vehicle advertising the value of your consumership, for free?
-
- Even Baseball
Has Rules And Requires Umpires:
We
just received an e-mail for a well intentioned but misguided
guy. He said that he once worked for a dealer after college before
taking employment in writing. He said the first thing the dealer
did was to call him into the dealer's office and warn him about
lying to consumers. I wonder why such a concern exists. Actually,
I have a pretty good clue. Bamboozling customers is a historic
tradition in car dealing.
The dealer's sales staff salary based on minimum wage plus commissions
scenario contributes to a tendency to cheat. Yes, folks, Time
Magazine (July 24, 1994) reported that dealers blame "competition"
for cheating. They blame the manufacturers for over dealerizing
the marketplace -- so dealers have to cheat to make a killing?
"Good Guys Finish First?" Gee, I wish we were making
this stuff up.
Wake up and smell the exhaust from this industry. There is no
good reason why this industry should not be better regulated
and managed for the health, safety and welfare of consumers,
our economy and for the industry itself.
The industry should be first in line to support a Fair Car Sales
and Service Practices consumer protection Act. But, they will
need consumers help in getting jump-started, boosted or pushed
in the right direction. So push! Get this jalopy started!
AutoBuyology
©
AutoBuyology©
CARveat
Emptor - Tricks of the Great American Car Deal©
(email - AutoBuyologist)
© copyright 1995-2006, R. Rand Knox, All Rights Reserved.
Not for use, reuse, sale, resale or fee unless so licensed or
released by R. Rand Knox in writing.
Happy motoring, wheeling & dealing
-- virtually and really.
|
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