Syllabus
AutoBuyology 101

 


AutoBuyology©
An Arts & Sciences Crash Ph.D. Course in Carlessnessology 101
©
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"If you want to control people, promise them freedom..." - L. Ron Hubbard

The Consumer Driven Car Deal
"Driving
(Defensively) A Hard Bargain"

Fixing The Dings In The "Great" American Car Deal & Paving the Consumer's Toll Free Lane on the Car Deal Highway

Mobilizing Auto Consumers in the Marketplace

Deal Negotiating Strategies
Dinging the Manufacturer and Dealer


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Driving A Hard Bargain

Climb behind the wheel of
the consumer driven car deal...
and swerve to avoid the
highway robbe
ry
AutoBuyology
DING the Dealer and
Ding the Manufacturer
on Negotiated Profits

  • The following is a listing of some car deal related considerations for empowering, motivating, & mobilizing consumers in consumerizing (jump-start it, or give it a push, but don't wait for the auto or banking and loan-lending industry or your government to help) the Great American Car Deal.
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  • You may wish to consider and pass along these thoughts to friends and relatives for further discussion, consideration, reflection, improvement and adjustment or tailoring to individual personal circumstances, politics and tastes and "market forces." Before negotiating car sales, lease or service deals, pick up a book or two or three (they all have some new twist or angle on evening up the car deal score) on car buying and negotiating and spend some quality time with these books.
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  • Find as much information and wisdom as you can about car dealer "dealing by the numbers" techniques which are referred to collectively as "System Selling." These dealing tricks have inflated profits for the auto industry and ripped-off our friends and families for decades. Oh, the automobile and dealing industry recently "celebrated" its 100th birthday. So, why do you suppose they are called "dealers"?
  • Before dealing with an automobile dealer or manufacturer, obtain a certified copy of the manufacturer's and the dealer's AUTO CONSUMER'S BILL (Invoice) OF RIGHTS (dealers and manufacturers will not know what you are talking about, but demand it anyway until the dealer fakes one or provides the genuine article), and keep in mind that anything in writing from the dealer or manufacturer will have to be enforced by the consumer after sale. Some dealers may fake a few hoop jumps to move a unit off the lot, and stall out on follow-up and compliance after sale. Its the oldest trick in and out of the book (owner's manual). What are warranties for, anyway? To move units off the lot at inflated prices. Its a moving unit...!
    • Beware of turbo-charged industry lip service (salespersonship and advertising) being paid to lure consumers down to the dealer (trolling for suckers). Such manufacturer advertisements and material fake an earnest attempt to make dealing and service fairer and cleaner. Remember that manufacturers have said that they have no control over their authorized dealers, and you will hear this especially loudly after a deal turns sour. These ads and materials, some cleverly pandering to consumer angst by spoofing the classic car deal shams are an acknowledgment of the deep traditions of sham in the industry, and do not represent any substantive difference in the treatment of consumers. Trust your instincts and the general public reputation of the automobile industry.

    If the dealer promises you the moon during deal and price negotiations, get it in writing, and do not be surprised if you get mooned after buying it... nothing personal, just business = the economics of capitalist relationships...(:-)

      Car dealing remains a shabby anti-consumer business. This industry will say and do anything to lure and milk more consumers -- even try to sell itself as honest and fair in the face of overwhelming evidence to the contrary. Things must be awfully competitive out there in dealer land, that this industry would acknowledge in its ads its shameful "past" practices. Don't buy it, the industry is no cleaner or fairer today than it was fifty or a hundred years ago. Ding the dealer and ding the manufacturer on every new car deal or lease. This industry has earned the public's ire and wrath.

    • Pick up Remar Sutton's books at the library or bookstore and read what he says about "System Selling," the dealer's major weapon against consumers in car dealing. Shift "System Selling" into reverse and engage the dealer in "System Buying" where you keep in mind and keep reminding the dealer that the dealer wants and needs your money more than you want or need the trouble of another expensive, over-priced, and potentially problematic new or used car. Avoid over-valuing an inanimate, shiny thin tin, plastic and glass object which has been designed to become obsolete with next year's new models.

    The proof in this is the depths dealers and manufacturers go to lure consumers with worthless advertising and sham sales tactics labeled as customer service bromides. As the dealer tries to make you feel uncomfortable (guilt manipulation) about not accepting an unreasonably high price--asking you what you are going to do to make the deal happen, remind the dealer that you are offering a fair price for an overpriced product of mediocre quality and potentially endless and expensive problems regardless of warranty or lemon law, and ask the dealer what he or she is going to do to provide you the vehicle your want at a fair price. Most lemon laws are themselves lemons. Consumers are on their own in enforcing lemon laws and warranties after purchase.

    • Develop self-respect as a consumer. Stop expecting this industry or your government to clean up the auto industry unless forced to do so by enough consumers demanding fairness in automobile sales and service practices. Australia has comprehensive consumer protection laws and enforcement in car sales and service practices, including training, testing and licensing of dealers and including full documentation and disclosures of defects and hidden damage repairs. Why don't we? Because we have let the automobile industry puppet our government in watering down, postponing or killing real consumer, safety and environmental protection.

    Fair consumer protection laws would protect consumers, honest dealers and manufacturers and our economy by boosting consumer confidence. Dealers who cannot compete fairly shouldn't be in the business. A country or society that would continue to permit an industry to run roughshod over it like the automobile industry has done for decades shows little in the way of collective intelligence or cultural self respect. This can be changed. Until now the auto industry has bought off government with consumer money. Its time consumers demanded a fair return on their investment in this industry and their government.

  • Unfair, manipulative, and fraudulent auto sales and service practices represent a hidden tax on consumers -- cleaning up (professionalizing) the industry would be far less expensive and would benefit consumers, the industry and our economy.
  • Be wary of lease deals (do not lease a car as lease deals generally favor the dealer over the consumer--know what you are doing before leasing) as dealers are failing or refusing to disclose lease rates (dealers are required to disclose purchase loan interest rates, but are not required to disclose the costs of leasing or lease rates which is essentially the lease interest rate or costs for leasing a car), inflating lease deal capitalization costs (the total cost of leasing the car) by the value of trade-ins, and other unsavory and anti-consumer practices.
    • A Toyota Dealer was reported in a major daily newspaper to have lease-sell dealt a $12,000 Toyota for $26,000 to an unsuspecting and overly trusting consumer. 2000 auto consumers in Florida who thought they were buying cars outright were leased vehicles instead. Heads-up and CARveat Emptor.
    • Consider obtaining a business function calculator (borrow the dealer's) and learn how to use it before negotiating for a car purchase or lease deal. Such calculators have programs for calculating the costs and percentages of interest rates and other important business factors. Remember to toggle the ding dong dealer factor on your calculator before settling on price. Every car sold in American is priced thousands more than its intrinsic and consumer value. Do not pay a dime over what the vehicle is worth, which is somewhere around the cost of making the product plus a small or token profit to the manufacturer for its troubles. Consider that most retailers mark up their products 50% to 100% of its wholesale costs. The auto manufacturer merely pads the window sticker price similarly, which includes a sales incentive or "hold back" in most cases of between 3% to 5% or more which is paid to or kept by the dealer upon sale of the vehicle (in addition to the dealer's markup you negotiate as a fair market price of the vehicle). Keep these issues in mind when negotiating price. Hold the dealer and manufacturer's take on every vehicle to the absolute minimum over the cost of making and delivering the vehicle. The gross profit on some of the new super Sport Utility Vehicles is reported to be $20,000.
    • One business or economic philosophy increasingly espoused by business schools and consultants (gurus) has it that the main purpose of any business enterprise is to make as large a profit as possible for their stockholders. Of course this is not true, but it is true that the main function of consumers in the marketplace is to check profit creep and gouging by negotiating fair profits on car deals and leases. Once was when our economic system was sold by business schools as a means for the equitable distribution of goods and services in society. This has evolved to the hyper-profits first theory... most likely from an MBA candidate with too much time on its hands.
  • Consider obtaining a voice activated pocket tape recorder which may inadvertently be left on in a purse or inside jacket or breast pocket during deal discussions. Recorded representations discovered after the fact may assist in reminding sales staff about promises or representations made prior to, during or after sale. Some recorders can be fitted to a phone for recording phone conversations as well. Recorders and miniature video cameras may be velcroed to the inside of the hood or engine compartment or wheel well of vehicles being left for repairs to pick up repair shop talk, too. Please check your local, state and federal regulations on the legality of recording and using taped private conversations, and proceed accordingly in your own best interests. Sometimes it may be found that playing back a recorded discussion may help in resolving a dealer problem before unresolved legitimate issues escalate into a more serious collision, although even this may not persuade the more jaded of dealers or mechanics. CARveat Emptor - increasingly the truth is used to bamboozle sales and service customers...Bring along Morley Safer of 60 Minutes if he's game, or Leslie Stahl if she's available. Get it all on video if possible.
  • Compartmentalize, break-up or segment the deal. Keep the deal simple. Break the deal up into its several separate aspects to more easily manage the deal and to avoid confusion--dealers are good at creating confusion and exploiting it to their profitability. Negotiate price separately on, (1) the new or used vehicle, (2) on the trade in (if you trade in you old car -- you likely will do better by selling the vehicle yourself through private sale on the open market than by trading it in on a deal to a dealer), (3) on the interest rate of your loan (if you borrow from the manufacturer or seller), (4) on lease deals, negotiate the Cap Costs which is the total cost of the vehicle and options and the lease fees. Also negotiate and obtain commitments and representations in writing for the responsibility for maintenance and the purchase option price or residual value of the vehicle at the end of the lease.

    Negotiate the total price of any deal, and avoid being suckered into buying based on what you can afford for monthly payments. Under no circumstances tell a car dealer your budget or what you can afford to spend -- a common, critical and stupid consumer mistake. Beware of the dealer's natural tendency to sell-up; to try to sell you a larger, different or more expensive car then the one which you feel meets your personal needs and budget, or to sell you down from the vehicle you want. Don't be sold-up. Buy what you want for your price.
    • Recall the consumer who paid $26,000 for that $12,000 Toyota, and avoid the same mistake. Usually, low advertised interest rates require purchasing the vehicle at the dealer's or manufacturer's window sticker price and may be limited by a time period. Shop vehicle pricing, and loan interest rates around between several sources and if you decide to buy, consider opting for the best total price including interest rate or loan costs, make as large a down payment as you can budget to keep payments and interest lower. The typical dealer forms which include spaces for the new car price, loan and interest rates and trade-in allowances are often confusing and may be used by a "sharp" salesperson to milk a deal by hiding trade-in allowances, interest rates and etc. The confusing auto contract forms must be another customer service feature. Service in the rear, read the small print on the back of the form... with a magnifying glass?
  • Paying cash only saves consumers the interest costs of a loan. Dealers and manufacturers get the equivalent of cash regardless of whether you pay cash or obtain a loan. Try to obtain a loan from a third party such as a credit union or bank after shopping and negotiating interest rates, rather than financing vehicles with dealers or manufactures, as typically you will end up paying more in buying and financing with the dealer. Consider the full total price of the car purchase with all costs included, including loan interest costs, insurance, warranty maintenance service charges, etc. Compare total "out the door", "off the lot", or "in traffic" costs. If you cannot understand what the final cost is, do not sign the contract or buy the vehicle until you do. If the dealer's contract is confusing, have the dealer write out the final and total costs of the vehicle and spell out each credit, and have this checked by an independent third party knowledgeable in auto buying.
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    Would you like fries with that... or how about our value meal?

    • Avoid being sold redundant or unnecessary dealer applied or installed clear-coating, rust proofing or other dealer applied or supplied extras unless you feel particularly charitable. Generally these items are unnecessary and are expensive far beyond their worth, garnering huge profit margins for the dealer. Beware the fancy label trick. Clear-coating may be called by some fancy name. If its applied at all, and often it isn't even applied, its usually invisible, and more importantly, its unnecessary.

      A good way to avoid being surprised with last minute sales pressures and add-ons or dealer remembered extras (surprises) is to
      obtain a copy of all deal related paperwork and a written disclosure of all services or dealer applied or supplied extras the dealer will try to sell you at deal closing or signing of the contract. Obtaining this information well in advance of closing the deal, giving you plenty of time to read the fine print away from the dealership, will better prepare you for dealing with the dealer when completing the deal, and it establishes you as a consumer in charge of the deal. Be ready for the last minute sale add-ons where the dealer tries to milk the deal (the consumer) by taking advantage of your "emotional momentum or investment" after you have made up your mind to purchase. One secret to selling is to ask yes only answer questions. Beware the "yes" answer momentum and the pressure to be agreeable and to answer questions with a positive response... be polite and sociable, but firm... be parsimonious with personal consumer information, as agreement and disclosure can become a communicable disease in car dealing.

      If a dealer tries to load-up a deal with lots of extras, either walk, or inquire whether the manufacturer didn't supply a fully completed product. Before paying hundreds or thousands of dollars for often unneeded dealer add-ons or extras, take a break, and leave the dealership to evaluate the sales pitch, and research the suggested extra[s]. Why would you pay extra for dealer installed clear-coating when the manufacturer has already lacquered or clear-coated the vehicle at the factory? Was the vehicle damaged in transit or on the dealer's lot? Many are, including high-end luxury models. If so, make sure to negotiate a much lower price for the vehicle or ask for a new and defect free vehicle. Remember, dealer installed air-conditioning (vs., factory installed air conditioning) is commonly problematic and subject to maintenance problems. If you want air conditioning, its generally better to buy it factory installed.
  • Before dealing, obtain a copy of a list of all dealer products or services which will be pitched to you after you have committed to the deal and are ready to sign the final contract paperwork. This is the time when a consumer's "emotional momentum or commitment" or desire to "get it over with" can lead to huge deal add-ons. Note specifically how the dealer deals the cards (presents the forms), including the order in which the forms presented ? Consider turning the stacked deck over or shuffling up the dealers cards if they are not presented in a logical order or as you are otherwise comfortable with. Typically a deal is not considered fully executed until the contract is signed and the consumer takes possession of the vehicle, which usually means driving it off the lot.

    Check with your local District Attorney to determine the auto deal "drop dead-its your's" point in your area. Use the knowledge of this point to your advantage in negotiating (milking) the deal. Sign some of the preliminary forms and hold back on the actual contract. As you get closer to the contract, demand (politely) a few extra extras as the salesperson salivates over his or her commission -- if you leave any for him or her on the table.
  • Nope, no bringing it back within three days (some manufacturers are luring consumers with 30 day bring back deals--read the fine print). This only counts in horseshoes and mortgage lending, if at all. You bought it, you own it, its your's sucker! Now, go find your own road or pathfinder...? Finally, some dealers are having to compete by offering three day return offers. Check out the fine print, and evaluate the entire deal against other alternatives, including the, "Don't Have A CAR, Man!" auto-motive alternative deal.
  • New car consumers may be able to negotiate the car manufacturer and the dealer on price, profit and quality, before being dinged by the long-held traditions of ding-dong factors in new and used car deals. These ding-dong factors are what make car buying an experience considered by most consumers to be something to be avoided "at all cost" when possible (many people prefer going to the dentist than buying a car). Wearing a clothespin on one's nose is an apt metaphor for how many consumers feel and talk about the Great American Car Deal. However, it will not fix sour deals, nor stem the stench of some deals, nor repair the reputation car dealers and manufacturers have earned for themselves from the general public and car consumers over the decades for the questionable sales and service practices of unscrupulous industry practitioners. The industry could be doing itself a favor by policing itself up of sham auto dealers and mechanics. Unfortunately, this will not happen, unless and until consumers decide that enough is enough and haul the Great American Car Deal in to the repair shop for a major overhaul. Removing the screws in car deals is a long term process.
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    Smooshed consumers, road kill on the car deal highway)

    • Graciously expect parking lots full of resistance from dealers and manufacturers on negotiated profit deals. Dealers and sales staff will do or say nearly anything to pay the rent, keep the overhead overhead, and maintain their Gucci lifestyles. Be very watchful of dealers trying to pass off damaged goods or products of less value on negotiated deals. Many consumers believing and expecting to get defect-free new cars, found out later that the new car they paid a premium price for came with undisclosed options of hidden damage repairs or undisclosed damage or defects. Not all new cars of the same make are the same. Shift changes at the factory may result in differences in the quality of vehicle production runs. It has been known to happen that wrong parts, including major drive train features have been installed in unintended vehicle models and shipped and sold. Customer service and satisfaction is merely a goal of varying degrees of commitment, not a promise or guarantee, although it may be promised (sight unseen) to induce consumers to frog onto "such a deal..."

      Remember, dealers treat customers like numbers (usually with a smile and firm handshake -- count your fingers) through what is known as System Selling techniques. It pays for them to do this, because they don't know how much a consumer knows until they try everything in their arsenal of car deal tricks to inflate the price of the vehicle and milk the deal with add-ons or forgotten, er., remembered extras after a customer has been low-balled back to the dealer with a fantastically low price, only to find the price increased with each new service or extra the salesperson includes in the final price. Without good consumer protection laws, car buying and dealing is "whatever traffic allows," (smooshed consumers, road kill on the car deal highway) and until the laws are enacted and enforced to take the industry to task for its shortcomings, this situation will remain. Even with good laws, there will continue to be sham in automobile sales and service. But, strong customer protection laws would give the industry a fairness target to shoot at (in addition to consumers) and would hold sham artists to account when caught red-handed with the exhaust.
  • Become a Guerrilla Car Consumer. Check out "Guerrilla Marketing," and "Guerrilla Selling," by Jay Conrad Levison, at your library or leaf through them at your local book store, and see who is targeting whom in the cross-haired jungle warfare in the "free"-for-all marketplace, and note the caliber of weapons and volume of ammunition deployed to target and exploit markets (read: consumers). Target back by shifting the consumer / merchant roles into reverse... ding back, first!

    Become a Guerrilla Car Consumer and employ Guerrilla Selling techniques to sell your service as a consumer in the automobile marketplace. Work the consumer guerrilla agenda and learn ways to avoid being manipulated or picked-off by the dealer's or manufacturer's sales or marketing agendas and staff (snipers). Beware of dealer manipulations to make consumers feel guilty (guilt manipulation) or pressure to settle for less than the consumer's best deal. Be aware of the tendency of dealers to exploit the anxiety factor in car buying (which they have helped to cultivate)... be aware of your time investment in dealing...and avoid the tendency to settle for less value in order to be done with it. Discount everything the dealer discloses about the deal and the vehicle and keep all dealer representations in perspective--its only a car, don't pay too much for it regardless of it size, cache or shine factor, or how much you "gotstahaveitz". OK, so you want it real bad, you still don't have to pay too much for it, and you certainly don't have to be cheated on undisclosed defects or hidden damage repairs. CARveat Emptor. Rehearse your take-it-or-leave-it guerrilla consumer demeanor (firm and always friendly) on a few dealers before settling in for the kill, er., deal.
  • An Unexamined Life Isn't Worth Consuming...(Yum, yummy, crunchy human)

    A recent University Extension School class schedule featured "Psychology of Buying"...[This is a misnomer, as this class teaches merchandisers and salespeople how to "read" or psyche out customers in order to manipulate their values and create needs or to make connections between a product and some illusionary relationship to fulfill manufactured and real human needs... not to provide a service, but rather to affect sales and ring up record profits... service is merely the straw-middleman to the end-game of record profits... the best way not to bet ripped off in the increasingly manipulative marketplace is to "know thyself", and the methodologies of sales manipulation.

    • Stages of development, personality factors
    • Social conformity, individuality and other needs
    • The importance of ego
    • Types of customers / consumers and methods of communications
    • Cognitive and social role styles
    • Hierarchy of values
    • Perception
    • Risk vs. safety needs
    • Methods of learning, training and changing. Participants can gain a sophisticated awareness of customer motivations including the importance of building long-term positive customer relationships and the real meaning of providing total quality and service [ostensibly as opposed to the faked variety...?]
    • Also see "Servicing Marketing"

    Check out similar classes at your local university extension program or obtaining the course textbook may be just the ticket for not getting "sold" on a product or service based on trumped up needs or wants... as long as merchandisers and retailers are going to push your buttons, you may as well learn where they are...

    • Are you being Freuded or Skinnered? Freuding is marketing by using psychological needs for social acceptance and group association, personal identity, safety, personal values, etc. Skinnering is using operant conditioning or (pseudo) rewards psychology... sometimes know as "good doggie" marketing or sales tricks. The membership discounts cards used by some grocery chains or other stores are a good example of Skinnering (named after B.F. Skinner, the famous Harvard behaviorist who wrote, "Without Marx or Jesus."). Rebates are another form of operant conditioning or skinnering. This is designed to make you think or feel as though you are getting a good deal or a rebate when in fact you are still paying an inflated price for the vehicle. The rebate is the dog biscuit tossed to consumers for performing stupid consumer tricks. Don't buy it... Don't be Freuded or Skinnered. Work your personal values and needs agenda, and don't let the dealer or manufacturer play chickenshit games with your needs and wants to affect a sale or rip you and your family off for an inflated profit.

    Buzz Off...

    • Be aware of the new car "buzz" factor and don't rush a deal or pay too much merely to have it over with -- that's not service, its being "serviced". Beware the new car "feel good factor" to the extent this may unduly sway your objective consumer skills. Avoid becoming emotionally attached to any inanimate object, especially a new automobile, no matter how pretty or expensive it may be. Request written documentation of all dealer or sales representations, and keep in mind that anything in writing from this industry is doubtful to be worth the paper its written on, as such information may depreciate the value of otherwise good paper. The consumer's agenda is to get the most value/best vehicle with as many options and extras for the lowest cost. While the manufacturer and dealer are free to ask any price they wish, and consumers are free to pay any price they wish, the prudent guerrilla consumer pays only as much as any product, especially "large ticket" items are worth, which is seldom much more than it costs to make and deliver it. In some cases this is less than the cost to make and deliver the product. This is often thousands less than the asking, expected or inflated price of most automobiles.

      Yep, that's right, we all have paid way too much for the average automobile, way too much, far more than most cars are worth. This we have done due to so called market forces (real, imagined and concocted), which in many cases merely means we have passively "bought" the inflationary pricing schemes, advertising and sales pitches (values manipulation) of an industry at war with America's individuals, families and villages -- consumers. The dealer's and manufacturer's agenda is to maximize after-loophole profits from sales to consumers by hook or crook.

    Avoid being drawn down to a purchasing decision from television ads promising low prices or interest rates, and especially if these are promised conditioned on you arriving by or before a specified time. Remember, every time you hear "limited offer," that you will hear the same thing again the next time you turn on the TV or read the newspaper. Buy, if at all, on the consumer's, on your schedule, not the schedule of the dealer or the manufacturer. Maximize your consumer profits in all retail transactions.

    Who's buying this mistake, you or me...?

      Don't be sold on any deal. Guerrilla Car Consumers control the deal. Any worthy or credible offer should not be unreasonably limited by time. If the deal isn't good in thirty days to sixty days, its probably not such a good deal. With some research, effort and patience, and a willingness to wait, walk or "fly" (this really depresses car sales staff), car consumers likely can drive a better deal home. As always, if the deal sounds too good to be true, it likely is -- watch out for dealer and manufacturer ding factors. And, be particularly watchful of the "lure low, hard sell" or lease up tactics where dealers advertise or quote low prices to get you off the couch, and jack you around on price or extras, and hard sell you up on higher priced vehicles, or lease/purchase deals which are anti-consumer and pro-dealer.

  • Understand the natural human pressures to buy up and be aware of the sales tactic known as "price lining", which merely means stocking three or more levels of products of gradually increasing prices (with or without regard to a corresponding increase in quality). The natural cultural pressure and apparent human instinct is to buy up in such situations. Where one might be lured down to the dealer by a low introductory price for a stripped down or very limited number of models which may not be available when you get there, the tendency is to "reward" oneself with better goods upon prodding with the intermediate or higher priced product. After all, aren't you worth it... may actually be the sales pitch. And, if you're paying "this much," what's little more....? You'll know soon enough when your happy smile wears off, and your 48, 60 or 72 month premium booklet shows up in the mail. Keep the "buy-low or down and rent up" auto consumer option in mind in such situations. Be aware of the natural dealer's tendencies toward the hard-sell for higher priced models with higher profit margins for the dealer and the manufacturer. Hard-sell and guilt manipulation or dealer pressure should be a cue to get up and leave or to proceed with extra caution. Push your way past sales staff that may rise to physically or psychologically block a doorway or exit if necessary. Avoid falling for the "another cup of coffee" "grounding" trick which is traditionally used to wear down consumers. Call the police if they lock the door on you. Do not go to another dealer or retail outlet until you know what a "loss-leader" is.
    • Consider obtaining the title of a current Introduction to Business textbook at a nearby college or school and purchasing or obtaining such a book at your library, and bone up on some of the con-ventional sales and marketing strategies used to induce sales and move inventory. Check out pricing strategies commonly understood to manipulate consumer purchasing decisions. This information, used properly from a guerrilla consumer perspective can be very helpful in avoiding "selling" techniques which favor merchants and business at the expense of consumers. Such beginner's textbooks are worth their weight in gold (actually hard unbacked cash), and should be standard learning materials in every public high school in any capitalistic economy or culture. Ask that your school board consider incorporating basic business practices training in your high school as soon as possible -- and we're not merely talking word processing and dictation here folks. These classes are commonly understood as "business" education at the secondary education level in America.

    Dinging the manufacturer...

    • Consider respectfully offering 1/4 (.25) to 1/3 (.33) or more off (less than) the manufacturer's invoice price or what is known as the dealer's costs (not the window sticker price, which is the MSRP or manufacturer's suggested retail price, which has affectionately become known as the 'manufacturer's suggested rip-off price') (the manufacturer's invoice or dealer's cost invoice is available from Consumer Reports, AAA, USAA or other car pricing service for a nominal fee) to the dealer for the vehicle and its options and walk away ("fly") if necessary until the dealer calls begging you to come and take one of the over-priced inanimate shiny thin tin, plastic and glass objects piling up in inventory on the dealer's lot. Yes, unfortunately that $20,000 vehicle is likely worth only $14,000 or $15,000 or less, at most. Deduct more from over-priced (aren't they all?) luxury models, especially those "hand made" Rolls and Jags.

      Car makers are posting record profits and building up huge cash reserves at the expense of our friends and families through so called non-negotiable "value pricing" schemes and no-dicker deals. Don't buy value price deals. Record profits are evidence that auto consumers are being fleeced and not doing their job of checking unchecked profit creep in the automobile markets!

      Negotiate every car deal. Do your pricing research. Make your best offer and walk. If you like, ask the dealer for his or her lowest, most competitive price for the vehicle. Don't fall for the suggestion that the dealer will match or beat any offer you get from a competitor. This is a classic dealer agenda tactic which is intended to get you to return for the hard-sell or softening-up treatment. Make it understood that you are seriously shopping for the most competitive price for the specific model you are looking for with specific options, and that you need to know his best price and for how long the price is good. Get it in writing. Start over if the dealer sells the vehicle, switches vehicles, or otherwise tries to increase the price when you are ready to buy. Keep in mind that the dealer's best price will be thousands more than the vehicle is worth, and thousands more than it costs to make and deliver the vehicle. This is why the preferable consumer driven car deal is the one where the consumer researches the pricing and includes all of the relevant ding factors and makes an offer and walks. When enough consumers do this, auto prices will fall to their intrinsic or consumer value level, instead of the inflated "market force" level which is inflated with advertising hype and social (peer or the Jones') pressures.
  • When manufacturers post record profits, this is evidence that consumers are not doing their job of controlling profit creep in the marketplace. Ding the dealer and manufacturer on price before you get dinged on price, quality, or product.
    • Why do you think its called the "Blue Book" price? Keep in mind that the blue book represents prices inflated by the concerted efforts of an industry whose interests are best served by inflated resale costs. The Blue Book price of vehicles will naturally go lower when consumers in enough numbers begin asserting their responsibility for checking profit creep and inflated vehicle pricing in the marketplace. Say, why is it that the dealer never buys or credits a trade-in at Blue Book price?

      The rule of thumb is that a dealer pays 30% less for used vehicles then they are worth and sells them for 15% to 30% more than they are worth. This rule of thumb is generally true for new cars too. So at the least, whatever you negotiated for your last vehicle was likely "at least" 15% to 30% more than it was worth. At least! Actually, 30% to 50% or more is perhaps more like it.

    • Another excessive consumer cost is the so called new car depreciation costs, affectionately known as the shine or new car buzz cost. This has been reported to be on average $3500 or more of the price of new cars. The new car depreciation cost is the dollar value of the vehicle lost when you merely drive it off the lot new and try to resell it. This is the "shine", "new car smell" or buzz factor cost in new car prices -- try to negotiate this out of the cost of new cars, just deduct it from your final offer and walk. Ask for semi-gloss or matte finish instead of the more expensive super factory or dealer detailed shine. Make your offer, in writing and leave a contact phone number where you can be reached, and walk until the dealer talks. Expect trunk space loads of dealer and manufacturer resistance here as well. Resistance and denial are the dealer's expertise.

      Change is difficult, especially for many of the "old dog" dealers and manufacturers. Consider whether new car depreciation (shine) costs aren't another good reason to go carless or to acquire a mildly pre-used vehicle...? and / or to demand efficient mass transit facilities...? Last year's new models should be obtainable at a reduced new car depreciation cost.

      Consider this: if the vehicle has been test driven half a dozen or more times and has left the dealer's lot at least that number of times, why didn't it lose its depreciation inflated costs during one of those test drives, instead of when you merely purchased it and drove it off the lot?
      Consumers should stop paying the so called new car depreciation costs. Make this industry appreciate you rather than depreciate you as a customer. Make the industry live up to its advertised and represented claims of customer satisfaction and customer service. Help the industry meet its often claimed customer service goals and priorities.

    • "Value priced", "no-haggle" or "no-dicker sticker" deals are designed to control pricing and limit consumer rights (free market responsibilities) to negotiate a fair dealer and manufacturer profit on the deal to check profit creep (creeps?) and price gouging, except as a take it or leave it deal--leave it--leave your written offer and walk or fly until the dealer talks. "Value Priced" simply means that everyone ends up paying too much "equally" for the same make and model of over-priced vehicle within a market: "Such a deal?".

      The new so-called value priced deals are an unintended admission by the industry that it has been ripping consumers off on optional equipment for decades. So do you really want to pay extra for this so-called customer service? Value priced deals are the industry's answer to the increasingly prevalent practice of consumers negotiating fairer dealer profits, up from the manufacturer's invoice (so-called dealer's cost) price. It took awhile, but consumers (too few really) slowly and steadily woke up to the negotiated deal and increasingly refused to pay the inflated window sticker price. Although however, too many consumers till pay the window sticker price for new cars. Unfortunately. The "free" in free market when it comes to the automobile deal industry seems to mean that dealers and manufacturers are free to lie, cheat and steal to make a killing on new car deals and service--whatever traffic or the market allows. Moreover, this situation will continue until consumers demand that the industry changes its practices or makes it do so through government regulations, or both.

    • It's now time to take the successful dealer profit negotiating concept one step further, and ding the manufacturer on profit as well. A fair price for any new car is a few dollars perhaps over what it costs to make and deliver the vehicle. This assumes that the manufacturer is efficient and prudent in its manufacturing operations, and most are not. This means that a fair price for new cars may actually be less than what it costs to make and deliver them. Negotiate down from the manufacturer's invoice (dealer's costs) price (not the window sticker or MSRP price). Make your offer and walk until the dealer talks--begs you to take one of the shiny thin tin, plastic and glass inanimate objects piling up in inventory on his or her lot. Of course, lemons at any price, unless you're into driving sour citrus, when (if) it runs, are way over priced.

    The free market depends on informed participants. Indeed, contract laws assume the parties to an agreement are informed as to the nature of the product and services and agreement specifics. If you are not informed and do not have the necessary information to determine a fair price for the vehicle, hold out until the dealer and manufacturer provide notarized certifications of all data necessary to inform you adequately.

  • Request a certified, detailed and meaningfully itemized audit of vehicle production costs to help determine how much profit the manufacturer has "built" into or hidden in its invoice price to the dealer (so-called "dealer's cost"). Expect resistance, as this will be nearly impossible, but request (demand) it as a matter of course anyway, and build this request into your lifetime auto purchasing strategies. Consider that you may already have made a recent new car deal mistake, and mistakenly believe that you are not currently buying or are not in the market for a car, but if you own a car and expect to replace it when it wears out, or if you are continuously checking-out the look and feel of other vehicles on the road, or if you are bathed in automobile advertising in the newspapers and on television, you are actively in the process of buying another automobile, or making other conscious or unconscious auto purchase decisions. Furthermore, auto owners may be just one major fender bender or accident away from needing personal transport. Consider the auto-alternatives.
  •  
  • Have You Been Serviced by A Factory Authorized Dealer Lately?

    • Remind the dealer and manufacturer about their pledge of customer service and satisfaction when they politely decline to provide the requested certified itemized vehicle production cost inventory. Without this information consumers are at a disadvantage in determining the true consumer or market value of a particular vehicle in comparison with others, unless they buy the dealer's sales pitch--duh?. Expect resistance here, like it'll never happen, until and unless enough consumers walk away or fly until the dealer and manufacturer walk the talk. Make detailed vehicle production and pricing costs a customer satisfaction and customer service issue with the next auto dealer you consider buying from. Make manufacturers and dealers compete against each other in providing accurate, certified accountings of vehicle production and overhead costs and profit margins. Pricing is a customer service or its a disservice.
  • Consumers should demand that pricing information and fairness become a factor in industry pledges of customer service and satisfaction. Do not let the automobile industry define customer service, satisfaction, or price. Request of the dealer all pricing information you need to make an informed pricing and purchasing decision prior to dealing. Dealers and manufacturers who decline or refuse to provide you the information you require are not deserving of the reward of your business. Verify it. Say, are the floor mats, and seat covers, and the dingle balls included in the so-called value price? And don't let the dealer suck the gas tank dry or remove or replace items from the vehicle, or switch vehicles between test drive and drive off. Make sure that factory installed parts and accessories have not been replaced by the dealer with cheaper replacement parts, or that included optional items have not been removed or charged twice or more for by the dealer or seller. Consumers should decide value and price, not this industry which has demonstrated a sad but considerable anti-consumer history and tradition. "Any color, as long as its black." "Any finish, as long as its shiny."
    • Don't Buy It. Consider making your offer (explicitly in writing, including your specification that you are making an offer for a new and defect-free and fully warranted vehicle, or otherwise as the case may be), leaving your phone number and walking away until the dealer walks the talk. Exercise the important function of checking profit creep and price gouging in the marketplace and the historic traditions of sham in the automobile markets by implementing the Consumer Driven Car Deal.
  • Ding the manufacturer and the dealer on profit on every new car purchase or lease, including no-dicker deals and so called "value priced" deals. You'll feel much better if the vehicle or the deal turns out to be a lemon down the road, or you discover the facts are other than as represented to you by the dealership prior to sale on the condition or use of the vehicle, if you don't pay too much up front on the deal. Undisclosed defects and hidden damage repairs on new cars are a very real new car deal risk (trick) to be aware of --ding, ding-dong, ding! Nothing personal folks, just business going on here, come-on down!
    • Beware of the ding-dong factor in new car deals. Deduct a big ding dong factor from your next new car deal offer or the ding dong may be on you. The trick to car deals is to be the dinger not the dingee.
  • Prepare a list of all the information and materials you will request of the dealer on your "fishing trip" or first visit to the dealership. Include all of the deal paperwork that will be presented at the time of closing the deal. Get a list of all dealer products and services that will be pitched at the last minute during dealer paperwork signing. Evaluate these products away from the dealership. If the dealer slips in any other service charges or products, decline them firmly but politely, after faking to leave, or actually walking away. Hey folks, its just a game, you've got to take it more seriously.
    • Request the dealer provide you with a signed copy of his or her membership contract with the National Automobile Dealers Association (NADA) and any other regional, state or local Dealer Group or Association. Obtain a copy of NADA's "Customer Bill of Rights", and Dealer Professional Development program policies. If NADA has no such documents, requirements or polices, request that NADA undertake to "professionalize" the "profession" as real professional associations routinely do. Obtain a copy of the NADA's consumer protection assurances. Then laugh loudly.
  • Another wrinkle to the dealer's "low-ball" sales tactics involves the dealer quoting a low pay-off price on trade-in vehicles for which the consumer still owes another lender.

    The trick looks like this: the sales person leaves the area to phone the bank to find out how much the pay-off balance is on the trade-in so that it can be factored into the price of the new car, which is financed. The dealer quotes a low pay-off price for the trade-in, and says this number may be off "by just a little" and that the customer will have to pay any extra which may actually be owing on the trade-in. It is inadvisable to trade in any car to a dealer on the purchase of a new car, as a private sale usually will get a consumer more return on the "investment." To avoid having to pay hundreds or thousands more than the low-ball quote by the dealer on such deals, cap the amount to a certain acceptable amount and have this agreement put in writing and signed by the dealer, the lending bank and the consumer.
    • Many auto buyers are reporting that after negotiating a price of a vehicle to be ordered by the dealer, the dealer tries to negotiate an increase in the price or to stall delivery to try to shake the customer out of the deal so the vehicle can be sold to someone else at a higher price. Apparently some dealers are saying they have a source for a special order vehicle when in fact they have no idea when or if the vehicle can be found or delivered. This is done to take advantage of and to "set" a customer's "emotional investment" in the product, price or service. Some dealers also come back to the customer after the contract is signed and the vehicle delivered, and try to add on extra costs, with the excuse or plausibly sounding explanation that certain charges or options were not included, forgotten, or overlooked in the original contract. CARveat Emptor. It ain't necessarily over until its over...
  • Another example of deal add-ons occurs after the contract is signed and the customer takes the vehicle home. A few days or a week or two goes by before the dealer calls to say it made a mistake and did not include the costs for an option or calculated something incorrectly, like licensing fees, interest or whatever, and requests you make good the mistake which may amount to hundreds of dollars or more. This is being reported more and more often as a commonplace tactic of milking deals. Threat these situations carefully. Don't be dinged on tricky deal add-ons, especially after your have a signed and binding contract. Additionally, try not to be convinced by such tactics that you got "such a deal."
    • Obtain a copy of a complete set of all deal related paperwork, including a copy of the contract form and all other paperwork that the dealer will expect to be signed at deal closing. Obtain this material in advance of making a purchasing decision in order to review it completely (including the fine print on the reverse) away from the dealership. Just do this!
  • Prepare a complete checklist of all your car deal criteria beforehand and make sure that all important items are checked off or satisfied. By establishing a personal list of deal criteria or categories and ranking or weighting the importance of the various items on a simple scale such as very important, important or mildly important, or high, medium or low in importance can assist you in evaluating or comparing vehicle models and deal particulars. Even a simple "pro" vs., "con" consumer values list can help in determining between a few vehicle model options. Try to distinguish between what you determine to be your deal or vehicle needs and wants and value these according to your personal priorities. By doing this, consumers assert their proper role and demeanor in the dealer/customer relationship. (Pick up a magnifying glass to read the fine print between the lines on contracts and all deal related documents -- deduct its cost from your final offer). Consult an attorney about the rights you give up by signing a car deal contract or make the dealer and manufacturer spell it out in 12pt type size or larger (plain English, please!). Better yet, negotiate your personal consumer contract-- perhaps this is the newest wave in car deals.
    • Consider negotiating a better lemon law for yourself during deal negotiations. Most lemon laws are themselves lemons. Have you test driven or read one lately? Spell out under what circumstances the dealer and manufacturer will replace a defective vehicle in detail and have it signed and notarized by the dealer and the manufacturer. Remember, you may have to engage an attorney to enforce any written agreement or to enforce existing lemon laws. In California the lemon law needs only be considered, not necessarily followed to the letter, by the industry sponsored lemon law mediation board, which places the industry at an advantage over the consumer in lemon law disputes. Some auto sale issues attorneys take cases on contingency, and many attorneys are beginning to specialize in auto deal resolution services (Yellow Pages under Attorneys: "dealer fraud" or "lemon law"). When all else fails, pick up the phone and consider the legal alternatives to a sour deal. Check under Attorneys, Dealer Fraud or Lemon Law in your yellow pages. (http://www.freeadvice.com) (?)


    Why A FEDERAL LEMON LAW Is Needed:

    • Because State lemon-laws are often unenforceable intra-state let alone across state lines. Moving to a new state? Will your lemony lemon-law migrate with you? Buying a car in a neighboring state? Negotiate a signed lemon-replacement agreement with the manufacturer (dealers don't count) in writing and notarized in triplicate (FROM THE MANUFACTURER !!!).



    • In many lemon law mediation cases, dealers or manufacturers shop for mediators or arbitration "specialists" who routinely rule in favor of the industry. Not a bad deal if you can get it, eh?
  • Avoid signing binding arbitration agreements as part of leasing or purchase deals. In a recent newspaper story in the San Francisco Chronicle (Sunday July 20, 1996), Reynolds Holding disclosed the results of a University of Indiana study due out in January 1997, which demonstrated that businesses may stack the deck against workers, and which apparently shows that with employers who go to arbitration twice or more a year, they win against employees 80% of the time--not bad, eh? The results of this study may be generally applied to arbitration programs in the auto industry as well, where often the industry sponsors the programs (not all manufacturers have arbitration programs). Employers in the story found that they could obtain the repeated services of arbitration masters who routinely found against employees and for employer management. Depending on the specific circumstances of any automobile sales or service arbitration program, the same pro-business bias may be present. Arbitrate carefully, if at all.
    • When the dealer tries to sell you extended warranties during the manufacturer's warranty coverage period, find out how much the dealer intends to charge and deduct this amount from your final offer, and ask why a good product and a good warranty would need supplemental warranty during the manufacturer's warranty period. Don't pay extra for overlapping warranties that cover the same repairs during the same period unless you really enjoy paying too much and don't mind inflating the costs of products unnecessarily for others.

      Do the same for new car depreciation (shine) costs and other deal add-ons and extras which the dealer tries to "sell" near closing the deal if possible when the consumer is most anxious to have the deal done and generally is most receptive to spending "a little" more on extras which should be included in any "value-priced" deal scheme. Expect resistance here too. But, make your offer and demand that floor mats and seat covers be made a part of the basic price of the car. Work with another dealer if the dealer you're working with is too stingy to sell you the whole car at a fair price, and make sure to have someone stay with the car while you are signing the paperwork, to avoid permitting the dealer to drain the gas tank or remove rear bumpers, trim or other items from the vehicle. _--IT HAPPENS! Did the factory authorize this?
  • Make sure things like floor mats and other little extras are included (milked) without additional cost. This is called reverse deal milking or downshifting the traditional dealer deal milking of consumers. No floor mats and seat covers; no deal! What does value priced mean anyway unless it includes all the expensive little extras that make a car complete. Guerrilla car consumers negotiate these little extras as part of the deal, instead of letting the dealer sell the consumer on paying extra for them. Get seat covers thrown in too, if possible. Why pay extra for what should be standard equipment? What's customer service for anyway? Tinted windows? They should be included in any final negotiated deal as well. Feel free to leave a big tip if you want, its a free country, or at least it was until the Fortunate 400 bought it at Uncle Sam's Members-only Discount Factory Outlet. Milk dealers like the dealers milk customers. Grip firmly and from the top down, squeeze firmly while pulling. Sorry, no sucking allowed. (:- )
    • Consider not buying a vehicle, especially one that the dealer or manufacturer will not provide you the opportunity to use for thirty days prior to committing to a purchase or lease agreement. Consider negotiating a thirty day return without question clause in your purchase or lease agreement. Why should you, the dealer or the manufacturer expect you to be able to make an informed major purchasing decision based on a short, one-time test drive with a dealership sales staff member on board pointing to all the new features and leading you away from the vehicle's negatives (every vehicle has negatives!)? Don't buy a car unless you know its the right car for you and your needs and your budget. Repossession and auto-remarketing is a growth industry too!

      The tendency or prevalent auto consumer mistake is to overbuy, overpay, settle too soon on price, and to get dinged on undisclosed hidden damage or repair costs. Avoid overbuying. How can you possibly do that based on a typical fifteen minute test drive? Add this to your car deal checklist. Deduct a huge ding factor for dealers and manufactures that expect you to make a permanent eight year purchasing decision in fifteen minutes.

    Buy down, rent uP!

    • Consider buying only as much vehicle as required to meet 90% of your personal transportation needs. Rent a van or sport utility vehicle when a special occasion requires more vehicle than your normal driving needs require. Beware of the dealer's need to sell-up, to sell you more car then you can afford or need, or want and can afford or which you just "gottahave", for more than its worth. Beware of, expect, and avoid the sell-up.
  • Put a value on your car dealing time and charge the dealer and manufacturer for the value of your time in dealing for the vehicle. Charge the dealer for the "haggle or ding factor" in negotiating a fair dealer and manufacturer profit and closing the deal. Deduct the value of your time in dealing with the dealer from your final offer. And deduct an additional "ding-dong dealer" factor depending on the relative responsiveness of the dealer to your needs as a consumer. This is basic economics 101 folks. Stop rewarding this industry for faking customer service and satisfaction. Make a profit on the value of the service you provide as a consumer to the dealer and manufacturer. The dealers and manufacturers are really the consumers here, you are the service provider. While you may have walked into their showroom, they walked into your living room first with trashy psychologically insulting and obnoxious advertising luring and beckoning you down to their dealerships with veiled promises of greater sex appeal, social acceptance, power, control, happiness and other worthless nonsense.
    • Don't sell the value of your services as a consumer short. Consider marking up your haggle or ding factor 50% to 100% in accordance with typical retail markups. Adjust as needed for market variables and practical realities. Go for more if possible. Remember, highballing up from your bottom line is generally the way this is done. Know and keep your best alternative to a negotiated deal (BAND) in mind. Be willing and able to walk away. Perhaps the best way to do this is to have an acceptable alternative vehicle in mind, or perhaps the more lucrative no-deal option. Walking is the best deal alternative for most people. Perhaps replacing the transmission or engine in an older model is better than sucking on a new car deal mistake. If the dealer says that he can wait you out, that someone else will come along and pay more, make sure the dealer gets the opportunity to do just that, as this suggests that the dealer may not value your consumership.
  • Check out your local library or local book stores under "cars", "automobiles" and "transportation" for books and references on negotiating new and used car deals. Check out books on negotiating, too. Polish-up your negotiating skills, knowledge and abilities ("Getting to Yes," by Harvard University Press is a good general negotiating text, and there are others). Target and practice your negotiating and walking skills, knowledge and abilities civilly (dealers are very sensitive creatures--treat them gently no matter how beguiling they are to you) on a few dealers before making real or committed offers.

    Keep in mind that regardless of what the dealer has cleverly led you to say or commit to, you are free to walk away from any deal until you take possession of the vehicle, which usually means when you drive if off the lot. Before driving off the lot, check the gas tank indicator and other trim items. Is the bumper and engine still there? How about the tires, the spare tire, is it in the trunk? "Oh, we didn't understand that you wanted the windshield, bumpers and the engine too. Why didn't you say so." CARveat Emptor! Car buyer be very wary!
  • WHAT's NEW...?

    Be particularly watchful for undisclosed defects or hidden damage repairs
    on all new (yes, "new") and used car deals, especially negotiated profit deals.
    Be especially careful with vehicles traded between dealers or vehicles represented as being "auto executive" or "brass-hat" vehicles. Carefully inspect new cars, especially along detail and design indention lines or other edges or points or lines or change in materials for over-painting which may indicate prior damage and hidden repairs. Check for uniform clearances and gaps between doors and body panels. Have the dealer raise the vehicle up on a repair shop jack you can inspect the under side of the vehicle. Does there appear to be a clean and neat or planned arrangement of systems and parts? Is the fuel tank protected from side impacts by the chassis frames and the rear and front axles? Are the brake lines protected from being pinched between chassis frame and the axles.

    Shabby or uncoordinated underside arrangements of systems or parts may be an indication of poor design or assembly. Have the vehicle inspected by an independent certified body and repair shop. Improve and share good car buying skills, abilities and knowledge with friends, family and associates. Check carefully beneath detailing lines added to the finish. Sometimes these detail finishes are used to hide repair or repainting work. They often crack and peel after a few years, so don't pay extra for such detailing gimmicks. Look at the entire exterior painted surface. Try to see the surface of the metal and look for uniformity in appearance and texture. One way to check the quality of a paint job is to look at the uniformity and consistency of the reflection of objects in the new surfacing. By inspecting the vehicle carefully, panel by panel, to see the clear-coating layer over the paint, the paint layer (is it uniformly applied over a smooth and dust particle free surface?) and to see the texture and consistency of the metal or plastic under the paint, will help you avoid paying too much for quality problems and mistakes.

    Take a small magnet to check for bondo repairs that may conceal hidden damage or repairs.

    • Car dealing has historically been handled like sex in our society, done but talked little about publicly, or perhaps boasted undeservedly about to boost one's bravado (its easier to boast of a great deal, then admit to having gotten skunked on a car deal). People generally say they got a great deal on their car purchase, but really they spent hundreds or thousands more than the vehicle was worth, and consumers are loathe to admit car dealing mistakes, like no-one makes them...? The metaphor may be apt here as well, as often parents forget to pass along good tips on car deal foreplay or rough car deal sex (getting screwed) and so forth.

      Practice safe CAR DEAL sex. Fifteen minutes with a good book or two on the subject of car buying will give you more guerrilla auto consumer ammunition in dealing with the dealer than 90-95% of consumers going into a dealer's showroom possess. Teach your children and parents well. Pass along good car buying techniques. Share tricks of the deal. Avoid unsafe or rough car sex. Again, "consumer protection is a life-long team sport." Avoid unsafe car deal sex! Unscrew the deal and consider the alternatives before buying.

    • Learn how to complain effectively. Only 4% of aggrieved consumers bother to complain, and many who do complain do so ineffectively.
  • Get a bicycle instead of buying a car, or to supplement your automobile for personal transportation. Consider alternatives to car ownership (much less expensive and better investments) such as B I C Y C L E S (negotiate price and profit here too), public transportation (demand political action and support for good train and light rail service and public transit), rental, buying down (smaller - less expensive vehicles), and renting up for special needs and occasions when you actually need a larger or different vehicle), communal or shared ownership options, donating used vehicles to needy causes, and ride sharing.
    • Use appropriate transport modes for short, medium and long distance travel needs: walking or bicycling or electric cars are perhaps best for short hauls or trips; cars, bicycles, bus or car pooling for medium length hauls or trips, and public or private transit for longer hauls or trips. Develop a lifelong personal transport plan.
  • Support funding, planning, design and construction of alternative public transit facilities, including light rail train and people movers, commuter and recreational bicycle paths, and efficient and convenient bus service. Even if you drive and do not use public transit, you benefit when others do. Others cannot use automobile alternative transportation unless is it available. Public transit is a no-brainer, so why do we do it so poorly in the United States? Clue: the auto industry and other public and private utilities have lobbied local, state and national governments to make sure that good public transportation is not available, and the public has not made it a priority in their voting decisions. Until we run out of petroleum supplies, this unfortunate circumstance will likely continue. But, it does not have to.
    • Be particularly wary of buying so called "sport utility vehicles" (SUVs). Consumers are paying premium prices and loan costs (interest) for sporty mini-vans, pick-ups and sport-utility vehicles which seldom are used for their intended purposes or capacities. These vehicles are in a special "not-a-car", "not-a-truck" category which exempts them from many standard sedan safety and bumper requirements. Some SUV's are reported to be high roll-over or stability risks. Narrow (side to side) and short (front to back) wheel based, high center of gravity and top heavy vehicles may represent a higher instability or roll-over risks, especially in high speed cornering, evasive maneuvers, or when struck by another vehicle from the side. Anyone who tells you otherwise is likely a car dealer or manufacturer.

      Sport utility vehicles (SUVs) are notoriously unstable on cornering and subject to flipping or rolling over. (You paid extra for that...?) The Federal Government recently caved in to the industry, failing to require sport utility vehicles be made safer in consideration of the fact that these vehicles are increasingly used by families. These vehicles often exceed environmental standards required for standard sedans which are regulated.

    • Beware of so called All Wheel Drive (AWD) vehicles which many consumers discovered after purchasing are not warranted for off-road use. All Wheel Drive may not mean four wheel drive. The Suburu Outback is one such AWD vehicle which is not a conventional four wheel drive, off-road vehicle. Some AWD vehicles owners have found out too late that they have voided their vehicle warranty by driving off-road.

    • New traffic sign: "Caution, Go Slow, Your auto-consumer friendly government at work again helping auto industry fleece consumers?" Whatever traffic allows. Until push comes to tow, and consumers demand better treatment from the industry and their government, consumers are what's for dinner. Beef: its what's eating us...?
  • Recently two popular and expensive sport utility vehicles received Consumer Reports "thumbs down" unacceptable rating because they flipped or rolled over in emergency maneuvers, say, as one might encounter during normal driving conditions at 35 mph. Buying a SUV?...be very wary. Why do you think some SUV's contain a warning about roll-overs? At least some do--check behind the sun visor.
  • Consider buying a smaller or more practical vehicle ( do you really need that global blast furnace or would the smaller global warmer meet your real needs?) without sacrificing safety and comfort and renting a van or sport utility vehicle for special occasions and purposes when needed. Larger more expensive cars are not necessarily safer than smaller or mid-sized cars. Verify crash test data to determine general vehicle safety, and remember safety tests do not test for all possible real world accident situations and conditions. Include safety factors in your personal pre-car deal inventory checklist and priority evaluation.
  • Consider a vehicle's safety history in making purchase decisions. Intellichoice of Campbell, California offers consumer value ratings based on several consumer value rating criteria, including: initial price/cost, safety, gas mileage, maintenance costs, trade-in value, etc. Consider comparing Intellichoice's recommended buy against your "ideal" or "gotstahaveits" make and model. Consumers who are smitten by a particular vehicle or option can develop acting skills and pretend what they want most is not that important for the purpose of negotiating the best consumer deal possible. Practice your "take it or leave it" attitude today and rehearse it out your local dealer. Learn and rehearse a believable "flinch" response when the dealer says for the tenth time that his price is the best he can do.
  • Consider a better investment. Instead of paying $20,000 to $40,000 or more for another car deal mistake, do yourself a favor and put that 20 to 40 thousand bucks or more into an interest bearing, socially responsible CD or other responsible investment for education or retirement or for charity, instead of rewarding this industry for its traditions of anti-consumer sloth. The Car Book, by Intellichoice is another publication available at bookstores or libraries which contains consumer choice information based on seven consumer value categories for various makes and models of vehicles. CARveat Emptor! Check your sources and your sources' sources.
  • Have you had an "out of car experience lately?" Demand that your government reward carlessness and people who are able to find ways to avoid car ownership or who drive less than the average annual mileage with tax incentives or advantages as responsible users of private and public transit. Consider demanding tax incentives for reduced use of the private automobile, and larger tax breaks for total carlessness or car-abstinence! Likewise encourage higher taxes (disincentives) for luxury or high gas usage vehicles and the vehicularly addicted.
    • Consider planning your new car purchase well in advance of your needs when possible. Postpone buying as long as you can, but give yourself plenty of time to leverage (wait out) a deal -- six months (minimum) to a year or more... be willing to wait -- its the best negotiating chip a consumer possesses, besides one's two feet. One year old new cars on the dealer's lot should be a better deal, minus new car depreciation, rebates and other manufacturer and dealer ding deductions, of course.
  • Consider that merely accepting a manufacturer's rebate or dealer's incentive reduced price on new year-old models is really not that great of a price incentive, deal, or price break. You can and should do much better than accepting merely the dealer incentive or manufacturer rebate pricing schemes. If not, walk or fly to another dealer until you find one that is willing to honor and respect your service to the industry as a consumer.
    • Target and practice your negotiating and guerrilla car consumer walking and flying skills on a few dealers to get the feel for the deal again if its been a few years between purchases or just to sample the salesmanship of the dealership. You can always buy later, and a "new" year old model is less expensive than a "new" new model just off the assembly line -- don't buy the depreciation costs... A new car is just an old car waiting to happen, waiting to lose its shine or depreciation value. If you are lucky you won't end up with an expensively defective "new" car, and you won't get taken for a ride on warranty or other repair work. If, you are lucky.

      The best warranty or guarantee in the world won't protect consumers from the tricks of the Great American Car Deal, including industry after-deal indifference or avoidance. Many consumers have discovered after purchasing that their concerns are ignored or put-off by dealers or manufacturers. The number one consumer complaint, based on the total number of consumer complaints filed with consumer protection agencies and non-profits involves automobile deal and service issues. Government is supposed to be responsive to such issues, but apparently your government has been studying the tricks of the Great American Car Deal in responding to auto consumer issues, and ignoring it. Make sure your local, state and national representatives know how your feel about the tricks of the Great American Car Deal that costs our friends and families tens of billions in unearned profits and costs every year. Fairness apparently is too much to ask?
  • Milk the useful life out of your old car as long as possible. Keep your vehicle in good working order with regular competent maintenance. Be careful here too. Find a good service mechanic if there is one. Generally, fixing up an "older" car is less expensive than buying a new car and making payments and paying interest on a loan for four, five, six or seven years. Consumers can generally work better deals through private sales and purchases with other non-dealer sellers or buyers, although any car deal is potentially problematic and risky.
    • The technology has existed since the invention of the wheel, but apparently due to the automobile industry's unwavering commitment to customer service, odometers remain tamperable. Useless headlight wipers, but no tamper-proof odometers. Now, we're talking real deep customer service.
  • Get written disclosures of all use, users, owners, and defects, damages, and repairs, IN WRITING, in advance and verify these. Obtain a title search from your state department of motor vehicles and contact former owners to verify prior use, mileage and so-forth. Also get a copy of all repair receipts for any used vehicle purchase before buying. Check it out!
    • Test drive the dealer! Target & practice your Guerrilla Car Consumer skills on a few dealers before deciding to deal or buy. Feel out the dealer's sales strategies and tactics. Listen with a silent but critical ear to the sales pitches. Do a few dry runs to get in shape and to become more accustomed to dealing with the dealer and to build up self-confidence and to sharpen your guerrilla car consumer "walking" skills. Because most car buyers buy a car only once every several years its easy to get out of practice and forget just how much of an ordeal buying a car can be, or how much fun, depending upon your perspective and dealing skills, knowledge and abilities. Auto consumers don't have to get taken for a ride every time.
  • Try to avoid being taken or influenced by the new car buzz. Don't go gaga over any over-priced inanimate shiny thin tin, plastic and glass object, especially one as expensive and impractical as a car-mobile. And, keep in mind that its only a car, so don't pay to much and don't let the dealer trick you on the deal or the product. No matter how nice or helpful a dealer of salesperson seems to be, they are really more interested in how much they can get you to spend on your next car deal, then they are about you as a consumer, human being, or family provider. Nothing personal, its just business, just a simple matter of free market economics.
    • Remember, car salespeople who have practiced their "craft(iness)" for years, ten to fourteen hours a day, seven days a week will be formidable in manipulating a consumer's focus and concentration toward the dealer's agenda and away from the consumer's agenda of highest value for the lowest price. Don't let the dealer lead you to over focus on any aspect of the product, including price unduly to draw your attention away from the value and costs of the entire deal. A common dealer sales trick is to plant sales rhetoric or spin in the subconscious of the consumer. Keep reminding the dealer of your value as a consumer, and keep asking whether the dealer values your business, and if so, why he or she is not more forthcoming in demonstrating it. If the dealer suggests that he can get more from another customers, walk and let him.
  • Merely making an offer on a vehicle places a consumer at a disadvantage because no one makes an offer for something they are not interested in having. Expect the dealer to try to exploit your interest(s) and be particularly aware of your "emotional investment" in a vehicle model, price or service, -- disclose as little as possible about yourself or the things you like about a vehicle, and never, never, never, ever, tell the dealer or salesperson your budget, how much you can afford to spend, or how much you can afford for a monthly payment. Maintain a professional and objective attitude about cars and dealers and have an alternative vehicle or transportation alternative to avoid becoming another dealer victim. And learn ways of exploiting the dealer's need for moving inventory, regardless of profit. Make your low-ball offer and walk until the dealer talks. Don't buy more car than you need or want. Try not to become emotionally involved with an inanimate object. People in love generally exhibit enlarged eye pupils when viewing the object of desire. Trained car sales staff may detect changes in a customer body language to gauge one's interest in a product, price or service. Develop a healthy and professional consumer disinterest in the product before negotiating.
    • Specify that you are (if you are) negotiating for a complete, new and defect-free new car, as if this is not stated (and even in some cases when it is--be car-ful) dealers may assume that a slightly defective car passed off as new and defect free may be permissible (hey, there's no law against it), or things like gasoline, bumpers, trim or other items may be removed between test drive and drive off. (Say, Mr., Mrs., or Ms. Dealer, does the deal include the engine and tires, or are they optional on this deal?).
  • Be keen to your consumer orientation and style. Are you a left or right brained consumer? Do you respond or are you more impressed or manipulated by formal mathematical or charted-graphed data (left brained) or to feelings and emotional (warm and fuzzies) pitches and advertisements (Right brained). The point here is not whether you are left or right brain focused or oriented, its being aware of the methods of manipulation and types of sales pitches being used to create needs and manipulate wants in your conscious and sub-conscious mind. Its easy to remember this, its just the opposite from what you might expect it to be based on left and right political perspectives. Here the left hemisphere of the brain governs the more linear and critical thinking functions, and the right hemisphere governs the emotional or feelings functions. Actually, when you think about it, the Republicans, being more reactionary, are really more emotional, merely appearing to be more logically rational...such is life, politics and car deals, just when you think you've got it figured, someone comes along and explains things...er...adds on forgotten items and misc., additional "remembered extras and charges... (:-), oh yeah, that'll be $??.??? for the bumper and the brakes. Did you want an engine with that...? Fries...?
    • Also, be keen to your interpersonal or consuming style. Are you assertive (not necessarily aggressive) with others or are you passive-aggressive, or what is known as "other people oriented", which means simply that you often agree with others and derive your world view and general demeanor or life focus from others rather than from inside, from yourself? Assertive people tend be less likely to be taken advantage of by dealers or others, but even assertive people can be tricked by savvy car dealering. Yes, Mr. Macho car buyer, you've been cheated on car deals before, even if you were not aware of it. "Other people oriented" people are at greater risk of being taken for the Great American Car Deal Ride.

    • Being aware of your interpersonal style should help you adapt to the degree necessary to avoid being manipulated in a car deal or lease. Studying negotiating strategies and textbooks is a good place to begin assertivizing your interpersonal style. Its worth the effort and time, and will pay dividends in other areas of your life as well as car dealing. Prioritize this, and drop by your library and pick up a book or two on the subject of negotiating soon. An introductory textbook on psychology may also be helpful. Be assured that auto manufacturer advertising agencies have a psychologist on retainer to tweak advertising content to push the inner buttons of your psyche. We're not just talking apples and oranges here. We're talking the many differences between granny smiths and golden deliciouses.
  • Car ownership for the average consumer is a life-long experience of several cumulative expensive mistakes, er...purchases, over fifty or sixty years depending on personal longevity and when one begins owning cars. At best car consumers likely will purchase a new or used car every ten years after the age of twenty (actually every six to eight years on average). This adds up to potentially seven or eight cars or more over a lifetime on average. The lifetime costs of car ownership and operation is considerable,-- over a $100,000 including indirect but associated costs of car ownership and use. How much of your tax dollars support the national, state and local system of highways? The real per gallon cost of gasoline is closer to $8 or $9 when the costs of maintaining the US Navy and Air Force in the Gulf for cheap crude is calculated.
    • It was recently reported by the San Francisco Chronicle in a story about the costs of development and growth, that the average California automobile commuter spent one of every five dollars ($5 : $1 ) of their incomes on car ownership. One in five dollars over a lifetime is a hefty piece of change! 20%.